Milford Track

11-15 May 2023

Three cars with eleven trampers departed from Rolleston Z service station shortly after 7.30am and it was not long before we had left the pouring rain in Christchurch behind us.  A long journey was broken with an early pie for most of us at Fairlie and then lunch at Cromwell.  A light snow covering was a bonus through the Lindis Pass and the further south we went into Otago the more we were in a completely white landscape until not long before Te Anau.  We were thinking it had been wise to throw in some ice-axes and crampons at the last minute. Our accommodation in single rooms at Te Anau’s Lakeview Holiday Park before and after the tramp for $42 per night per person (less for couples) was excellent value, with shared bathrooms and kitchen facilities.

We were picked up at 8am the next morning with some other track walkers and transported to the boat at Te Anau Downs. It was on the bus that we first met a visitor to New Zealand—German John—to distinguish him from John R. He became like another member of our party over the next few days. After an hour or so on the boat, enjoying the snow-covered peaks coming and going in cloud and the mist rising from the lake, we arrived at Glade Wharf.  After a short walk along a wide track through beech forest we arrived at Glade House, a private lodge, where Diane gave us a briefing.

A swing-bridge took us across the Clinton River and we walked through forest beside the river to Clinton Hut. The river was very clear and an unusual emerald green in deeper pools.  We saw whio and a tuna/longfin eel. From Clinton Hut we had 18km to walk to Mintaro Hut but it is a gradual climb for most of the way on a very good track, so there was plenty of time to enjoy the journey. As we walked up the valley the relatively close, sheer snowcapped mountains either side and the first waterfalls spilling from the tops had many of us stopping often to take photographs.

It was sunny and warm in the open but once in shade further up the valley it got rather chilly. Near Mintaro Hut there was snow on the ground and the boardwalk out to the helicopter pad by Lake Mintaro was quite icy. Looking up to snow-covered Omanui/Mackinnon Pass, Mackinnon Shelter was visible. At the replacement Mintaro Hut which was opened in 2021 there were beautifully carved pouwhenua which were created specially to tell the part of the Ngai Tahu creation story that is most relevant to this place.  See Mintaro Hut reimagined.

The hut sleeps at least 40 and must have been nearly full.  In the dark the DoC warden was having a hard time counting the people.  The big dining, kitchen area was a hive of activity with many nationalities present.  There were other New Zealanders, including a couple from Kaikoura and a family group with a young man walking in slip-on scuffs to prove a point to his mother who had told him he needed boots. He succeeded in walking the whole track in scuffs but did add plastic bags over them in the snow. A downside was that during the off-season there was only one outside toilet at each hut for everyone to use.

Day 2 was another fine day. We headed back to the main track and up the zigzag to the memorial to Quintin McKinnon.  As we climbed up the zig-zag track, we observed two helicopters flying to MIntaro Hut.  We later learned that one of the family had damaged his achilles tendon the day before and was unable to walk by morning, so had to be flown out.

The snow was soft and had melted on the track, so we didn’t need to use our ice axes or crampons.  At the memorial there were three keas looking for mischief. Unfortunately, the cloud was down and most of us didn’t get views from the top.  One group at the viewpoint near the memorial were able to glimpse Quinton Shelter a long way, straight down below. There were several tarns in the area. From the memorial we had a short climb to the sign for the pass and then to Mackinnon Shelter where we had lunch.

Not far on from the shelter the normal track was closed due to ice and avalanche risk, and we took the steeper, shorter, emergency track which had been freshly cut, down to near Moraine Falls where we rejoined the main track.

The next section down to Quintin Shelter was a fantastic series of steep wooden steps with handrails beside the Roaring Burn River with its series of beautiful waterfalls. At Quintin Shelter some of the group left their packs and walked to Sutherland Falls.  The rest of us continued to Dumpling Hut, getting a good view back up the valley to the falls.

At Dumpling Hut the sleeping quarters and kitchen/dining areas are separate buildings. During the night there was torrential rain but by the time we left in the dark the next morning it had eased somewhat.  The first hour or so was by torchlight.  I walked behind a young man who was doing the trip without a torch, and he was behind Raymond and Sonja.  When it was light enough to turn off our torches, we could enjoy the bush. Particularly striking were the orange-coloured trunks of some large tree fuschias. The rain was a blessing as it made waterfalls down the steep sides of the Arthur Valley and the Mackay Falls spectacular. Diane and I became the tailenders as we took numerous photographs

Some of us stopped at the Giant Gate Falls Shelter beside the Arthur River for lunch but others made it very brief as they were keen to get to Sandfly Point Shelter and change out of wet clothes. The man-made rock cuttings of the track alongside the Arthur River and Lake Ada were one of the few parts of the track I had remembered from 25 years ago. The last 3km to Sandfly Point was a wide track made by prison labour between 1890-1892.

At Sandfly Point the sandflies were mostly kept at bay by the rain.  It was just as well we had arrived by 1pm as there was only one boat to ferry 4 people at a time over to Milford, the other boat having broken down.

However, all our party were ferried in plenty of time to warm up and enjoy coffee and food at the café before our 2.30 bus to Te Anau. After hot showers at Te Anau, we had a meal together at a local pub. We farewelled Diane in the morning as she was staying on for a few more days and the rest of us drove back to Christchurch.

This was a fantastic trip on what is truly one of the greatest walks in New Zealand and probably the world.  Thanks to Diane for the great planning, and timing the weather just right. A final note: Diane and Sonja were out biking in Christchurch after the trip and who did they come across?  German John! The group was: Diane Mellish, Raymond Ford, Sonja Risa, Ann Schofield, Clare & Cary van Vorsellen, Wendy & Bill Templeton, Gavin Chalk, John Robinson and Sue Piercey.  [SP]

However, all our party were ferried in plenty of time to warm up and enjoy coffee and food at the café before our 2.30 bus to Te Anau. After hot showers at Te Anau, we had a meal together at a local pub. We farewelled Diane in the morning as she was staying on for a few more days and the rest of us drove back to Christchurch.

This was a fantastic trip on what is truly one of the greatest walks in New Zealand and probably the world.  Thanks to Diane for the great planning, and timing the weather just right. A final note: Diane and Sonja were out biking in Christchurch after the trip and who did they come across?  German John! The group was: Diane Mellish, Raymond Ford, Sonja Risa, Ann Schofield, Clare & Cary van Vorsellen, Wendy & Bill Templeton, Gavin Chalk, John Robinson and Sue Piercey.  SP.