Hidden Valley, Purau

Sunday 22 June 2025

Near zero temperatures got us off to a stiff start from PMH but our two cars made good time to Purau. We were met there at 10.30am by volunteers Alice Shanks and Jonathan Carr from the Hidden Valley Conservation Trust. They had kindly agreed, at very short notice, to guide us through some of the 105 hectares of reserve land, mostly on the western slopes of Mt Evans, that Trust supporters have bought to protect rare plants and wildlife. Our group felt privileged because although the Trust holds open days it's not yet geared up for the general public.

The sun was well and truly up as we drove along the Port Levy Purau Road to the access track. Here, we got our first unobstructed views of the reserve; dark bushy gullies and bare rock rising dramatically from a wide valley that looks unnaturally green. It's also quite boggy, three wet springs haven't helped. Jonathan says that water is normally scarce; the only available bore is for farmers. The 'ribbon' track we follow up the western side of the valley is shaded and ideal for poles and leads us round slippery rocks and dense bush to a natural vantage point. Here Alice shows us the Trust's latest purchase, a stunning 33 hectares which includes the headwaters of the Waituturi Stream. Apart from natural wonders we see faint remains of early buildings, even a hotel, and before the Hilltop Road this was the only way to Akaroa. Most of the stone walls and historic fences have been ripped out but the stories live on. In a patch of slowly regenerating trees, Alice finds a rare native teucrium and she urges us to return in spring when it flowers, along with thousands of kowhai trees. Thanks to volunteers, roughly a tenth of the reserve has been planted but Alice says the attrition rate is high, and kanuka will inevitably take over “It's better left to nature”.  A small utility hut in the next clearing is also one of several bird count sites on the track. We call hopefully for kereru. Jonathan boils the billy for a quick cuppa but with so much to talk about it becomes early lunch.

The Trust's long-term goal is not just to save the reserve from development; it wants the track to be officially recognized. Says Alice, “Banks Peninsula will be the walking capital of New Zealand!” but no goal can be realized without financial support, and some of us are at an age when the word legacy means something. With these sobering thoughts, mingled with awe at what just a few people have achieved so far, we finish eating and follow the orange markers, up through tussock to an exposed ridge; the hut is just a dot below. An action camera has been set up to monitor pests. Cattle have trashed the bush but there are no pigs; today it's only us being recorded! Before we exit Hidden Valley Alice goes off to do one of her checks, we head east under a wide sky, briefly picking up the old packhorse track to Port Levy. Walking downhill, we fan out, enjoying the distant views. The cloud has cleared, finally, showing dozens of tiny boats bobbing in Purau Bay.